All the (off)road going amphibious vehicles of the world. (work in progress) All the (off)road going amphibious vehicles of the world. (work in progress)

Last modified 30 September 2012

THROUGH HELL AND HIGH WATER --  (Calmer water-3)

My Amphib index
Nemesis drove 2,665 km, on its own power over land, to Lago Maggiore in Italy and then to the Amphib2011 in Switzerland
She did 30 to 40 hours on the water making it a total of 150 hours (on the road that is about 9,000 km)

On this page I tell what is wrong and on the next page I tell what I have done about it!
She held her end
and she brought us home safe.

But the water jet was at the end (making so much noise)
So I took it apart.

water jet open propeller

For me that was a new LOW.

The Tapered Roller Bearings where hold apart with a piece of pipe!
That means there was to much slack, that is why the prop was hitting the wall under load.
The water/oil seals run on sockets that where hold in place by again a piece of pipe.
The only thing that holds the water out was the original grease on the bearings.
Water was creeping in between the axle and the sockets!
No trace of extra grease or oil was found.

I took the prop to an expert to have it balanced. (A sad day)
He told me:
1- It can not be balanced in a normal way!
2- It is NOT a water-jet impeller!
  a- (at best a cut of piece of a bow-thruster)
  b- (at worse a cut of piece of industrial pump for grain or peanuts)
rear drive shaft bearing
It took a few days, to take the water jet out, you needed to remove the drive shaft.
I found out that the axle fits with plenty slack in the rear bearing.
To be exact the axle is 0,32 mm to small.

Again to keep it in place a piece of pipe was used
Dog of a dog clutch
The sick dog of a dog clutch.

Never thought much of that "thing"
It makes much noise and it was hard to grease/oil the expected to be needle bearing.

In every machine I have seen in the last 45 years
   that sort of thing always has a needle bearing.
It is a perfectly normal thing to expect a needle bearing.
   that sort of thing can not function without a needle bearing.

dog clutch side view dog clutch front
Needle bearing????
HE what do YOU think it is a DUTTON!
There is no needle to find,  but there is trouble to find when you do things that way.

OK, it is an explanation for the noise and vibration

In my efforts to find a solution  I did find out that the 3 pins (on both sides of the dog) are not symmetrically placed. OK, it is still a Dutton.

I had a leaking tyre on the left front.
That was the moment found out that Tim Dutton does not gives a shit about the lives and limbs of his customers.

At 70 km/h the steering wheel started to move violently from left to right.
Despite the power steering I had to use brute force to keep it in my hands
Nemesis self moved about a 50 cm side to side.

I put my size 44 steel tow FULL on the brakes and I live to tell the tale.

But an under inflated tyre is no reason for this kind of shit.
The whole axle needs to move to get this kind of behaviour.

So I had to test:
The problem started at a little bump on one wheel with + 60 km/h with 2 tyres at less than 2.2 bar.

Yes I did test it more than once, please do not tell the love of my life I did that!

I found out that the leave spring shackles at the top hinge had a bit of play.
The Dutton made the top part from a stainless steel tube 31.5 mm inside.
The Suzuki Samurai has a tube of 30 mm.
Dutton uses the original Leaf Spring Bushes!
There for every shackle has 1.5 mm play, giving the axle 3 mm of play.

That is plenty slack to start a resonance in the front axle.



old hose

Oil leaking in an Amphib floats on the bilge water.
Normal rubber hoses do not like oil.

In Italy and Switzerland there was still a drip of oil leaking from the adapter to the oil cooler.
I already changed the old damaged leaking O ring for a new ones.
But the last drop was hard to stop.

One day I realised (again) how stupid I am.

Somebody uses an O-ring but any one with a brain uses a copper ring.

So O-ring out, copper ring in, and the oil stays inside.

But the oil took it's toll on the rubber of the water hoses.

At the first test drive with the caravan on the new tow hook.
A hose ripped open letting ALL the water out.

No problem, still ONE week to go before we leave for Amphib2012.
bilge pump

bilge pump

bilge pump

bilge pump
After Amphib2012 I wanted to clean the bilge and hard test the bilge-pumps.

At the car-wash I used a pressure cleaner to rinse the inside of the hull
And normally the bilge pumps pump the water out.

Front was OK and the rear was OK!
But the engine/centre bilge pump did turn but did not pump.

After some digging to get to the pump I found that to get it out
I need to remove the main drive-shaft.

When I had the pump in my hands, the plastic was deteriorated by leaking oil.

The left clip was broken off and the side was crumbling off.
The result was a pump that rotates but can't build pressure.

In he instruction manual of the new bilge bump is a drawing:
That tells HOW NOT to mount a bilge pump.

bilge pump

Can you guess how Tim mounted his bilge-pumps?

No, just drill a hole in the hull and put a screw through the hole.

the light

The light
Sometimes I see the light, and not always is it a pretty site.

No worries, after working on Nemesis and the rest I need.
I will write the next page.

Previous page.
Next page.
My Amphib index So far and then back to the drawing board!!